Rikumo Recipe: Salmon Chowder with Miso Soy-Milk Broth
Seasonal cooking is a big part of many cultures and types of cuisine. Chefs and home cooks alike often choose to use local produce from farmers’ markets to be sure they are getting the freshest ingredients possible. However, as we begin to prepare for the winter season, not only does the variety of food available to us change, we also look to change the way that we cook. As the year draws to an end and temperatures fall, we think more about soups and stews and less about raw vegetables and fresh fruit. Talk of slow cookers, instant pots, and one-pot meals peak during this season.
Although these multi-use cooking vessels are practical kitchen appliances, none could match my love of cooking in a donabe (doh-NAH-bay). This traditional piece of Japanese cookware is the ultimate in clay-pot cooking. Aside from traditional hot-pot cooking, the donabe is perfect for steaming vegetables and dumplings, braising meats, cooking rice, as well as making soups and stews. What's even better is that the donabe can go right from the stove to the table giving you one less thing to clean up but also adding a touch of beauty and warmth to a shared meal.
To make the most of the season, we knew we needed to fill our stomachs with something warm, soothing, healthy, and hearty. This recipe from Naoko Takei Moore’s wonderful “Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking cookbook” checks all the boxes. Try the recipe below!
A built-in steamer is perfect for tender veggies or your favorite dumplings
Salmon Chowder with Miso Soy-Milk Broth
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 pound (450 g) salmon fillet (skin removed) cut into 1½-inch (4 cm) cubes
Sea salt
4 ounces (120 g) broccoli florets, cut into small bite-size pieces (from 1 small head)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ medium yellow or sweet onion, minced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sake
1¾ cups (400 ml) vegetable stock
1 medium carrot (about 3½ ounces/100 g), cut into ⅛-inch (3 mm) rounds
7 ounces (200 g) satsuma-imo (Japanese sweet potato) or regular sweet potato, peeled, cut into ⅓-inch (8 mm) rounds, and the rounds halved
½ cup (120 ml) Saikyo miso or sweet white miso
1¾ cups (400 ml) pure, rich plain soy milk or whole milk
5 ounces (150 g) shimeji mushrooms, trimmed (can substitute with shiitake or enoki mushrooms)
Shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven-spice blend), optional
Directions
Season both sides of the salmon lightly with sprinkles of salt. Set aside for 15 to 30 minutes. Pat dry.
Bring a medium-pot of water to a boil and add a generous pinch of salt. Add the broccoli and blanch until it’s partially cooked and crisp, about 30 seconds. Drain well and let it cool down. Set aside.
Heat the butter in the donabe over medium heat and sauté the onion until very soft but not colored, 10 to 15 minutes. Cover with a lid when not stirring. Add the flour and stir for about 1 minute to cook it. Add the sake and stir again. Gradually add the stock, stirring so that the mixture won’t become lumpy. Add the carrot and satsuma-imo and cover. As soon as the broth starts to boil, turn down the heat to simmer gently until the vegetables are just tender, about 4 to 6 minutes.
In a bowl, whisk together the Saikyo miso and soy milk. Stir the mixture into the donabe. Bring back to a gentle simmer. Add the salmon and the shimeji mushrooms and bring back to a gentle simmer again. Simmer gently for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the salmon is barely cooked through. Adjust the seasoning with a pinch of salt or more, if necessary. Add the broccoli and turn off the heat. Let it rest, covered for a few minutes. Serve in individual bowls at the table and enjoy with some sprinkles of shichimi togarashi on top.
WORDS BY LISA HECHT